Tag Archives: custom corset

My First Custom Corset

Drunks make and break promises left and right, but a well-functioning sot is much more likely to follow through! In my tipsy vlog on leather corset care, I mentioned that I would soon be blogging about my first experience ordering a custom corset. Ta-da: as promised. It’s a very exciting and multi-step process, especially for those who aren’t used to having garments whipped up for them in collaboration with a design house, so I’m happy to share my experience.

The hardest part was deciding what I wanted (first in my long queue of dream corsets, anyway)! A common misstep that clients often want to take is to put too many design elements of every corset they might ever want into a single corset: teal butterfly brocade with silver piping and pockets and straps and and leather panel of contrasting color and D-rings and… too many “and’s” can lead to a costly corset and unfortunate aesthetic disaster. Having seen this unstoppable force of sheer giddiness in motion before, I pulled my excitable instincts back and decided to keep it simple. No fancy fabric choices: just plain, black, glove leather.

But I want SHINY!

Tell your inner fish:

It doesn’t speak.

I chose basic black because not only is it classic, but people looking at you will tend to see your silhouette and your personality, rather than the garment itself. I learned this lesson the hard way from a previous store manager, Holly Bobisuthi — who, for the record, one cannot keep away from electric teal tones or animal prints if one’s life depended on it — when everything inside me wanted a corset of multiple panels of insane Escher wool in black in white.

But why do people compliment my waist line more in my RTW plain black corset, when my wool one is a full inch smaller? My iliac crest is OBVIOUSLY more pronounced in it too!

Because young one. They only see the fabric, not the shape.

In my memory, she speaks to me like a sensei.

Basic black, lessoned learned.

The design I chose, granted, is a lot of corset. Highback, underbust, 18″ waist, accommodation for my ribs and hips, and longline Dollymop designer points framing the rear. I ordered something custom that is clearly custom. No one else has this corset — yet, anyway.

It’s no secret I get my corsets from Dark Garden. Excellent service, high quality materials, in house design and production, I work there… as well as the fact that I hate ordering things online, especially when fit is such a consideration (I won’t even order shoes online). Any corset maker that has a customer service team you can *speak to* regarding fit, style, and manufacture is a step above the rest.

THE PROCESS

Initial Measuring and Consult

All of the necessary measurements for the style of corset I was ordering were taken. I explained to the Master Designer what I was looking for (a specific shape of waist curve), that I was a tightlacer, and she inquired as to my desired waist measurement. She was open to modifying her standard design for the Highback Pointed Victorian to meet my aesthetic, and for her grace, ease, and flexibility to what I was looking for, I felt very taken care of as a custom client.

First Fitting

With the notes and measurements in mind, her senior pattern master came up with a mock up pattern just for me, and a mock up was created out of muslin for a first fitting, pictured below.

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Notice a couple things:

• a custom corset has a lot more panels than a ready to wear corset, allowing for more curvature with less stress on the matrix of threads essential the the makeup of the fabrics (benefit of which: custom corsets last longer).

• I’m totally stoned from satisfying compression made just for my body. Yummmm…..

During the fitting, the master fitter took notes on the mock up for the pattern to be adjusted accordingly. This was time to speak up if any changes were desired. Kalico Delafay happened to be walking by and I blurted, “Hey, can we put a Dollymop bottom on this thing?” After a look between the two designers and then finally a nod, the deal was sealed. Yes! I love the hybrid corsets.

The mockup fit so well, the master fitter was confident that a second fitting was not necessary. My order was moved into production.

Construction

As a front-of-house person, I’m not really supposed to disturb the stitchers at work, but I was too excited when I discovered it was MY custom frankenstein corset coming to life!

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AHHHHHHH SO EXCITING

Finished Corset

And then, after the deciding, the ordering, the measuring, the mockup fitting, the production, it was done! And it was beautiful.

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That’s a three quarter back view. Notice the rib definition! Photo by Edward Saenz
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Back view. I still have quite a bit of training to go, but the waist to booty ratio is not to bad! Photo by Edward Saenz
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A romantic side view. Photo by Edward Saenz

 

I also had fun wearing this corset at the 2014 Edwardian Ball!

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With friends!

 

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Eye candy for hungry crowds (in between Dark Garden salon performances)

 

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Sugar and spice from every angle!

 

Here’s to many more adventures in my wardrobe’s gem! I can’t wait for my next custom corset. I’m thinking about a sweetheart with a very reduced waist line, but my mind changes too often to tell with certainty. Perhaps something with the Swarovski crystal treatment… Indulge my inner fish!

Cheers,

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Photo by Edward Saenz

Euphrates X

Tightlacing Liaison | Expert Fitter

Dark Garden Unique Corsetry

 

 

Vlog: Caring for a Leather Corset

Sweeping the floor, doing the dishes, feeding the cat, and conditioning the leather; housekeeping tasks are dependent, of course, on the household! 

I was in the midst of my evening household maintenance (and a glass of Malbec) when it occurred to me that I might share how it’s done.

Because one can really love leather. It’s the best stuff on earth. One wants to instinctively touch it, wear it, lick it… Ok, even if you don’t want to lick it, you must admit: it’s very compelling! It’s fashion forward, and yet, primal.

But how do you care for it? It’s not totally obvious. You can’t wash it: no, no, no. Heaven forbid you go out in the rain, like I did, and expose your second skin to the elements.

Well, there are things you can do to protect your garments, shoes, and CORSETS in the long run from wear: a little tender, loving, conditioning will do the trick.

Products used are Lexol Leather Conditioner and Lexol Ph Leather Cleaner, available at many shoe repair locations, or places that sell fine leather.

Although, I forgot to mention in the video that if you are using an unfamiliar brand of conditioner, especially on a light-colored leather, it’s best to test a hidden area (such as the back panel/modesty panel) before treating the whole corset, just in case!

And… do try to stay out of the rain.

CONTENTS
0:00 – 0:40 Intro
0:41 – 1:44 BE PREPARED – on Boy Scouts and Materials Needed
1:45 – 2:14 About My Custom Leather Corset
2:15 – 3:04 Applying the Conditioner
3:05 – 3:42 Why it’s Good to Condition
3:43 – 4:38 Getting Soaked and Buffing Off
4:39 – 5:36 Seeing the Results of Conditioning and Final Thoughts

CHEERS,

Euphrates X

The Most Interesting Corset Ever

The first that I saw of her yesterday was a tuft of green hair and a flash of metal from crowed rows of ear piercings. Her head was bent forward over her silver tipped canes in effort; it was hard for her to walk and she seemed to be in pain. “Hey, Bob!” I greeted her. “How are you doing today?” The face that normally held a beaming smile lifted towards me and my guts dropped a few inches at the grimace that had replaced it. Yes, Bob was in pain. She shared a sentiment similar to life being shit wall-to-wall and quickly found herself a seat. “And how is the baby?”

This inquiry made her light up like a Christmas tree in Germany. “I may be falling apart, no matter about that, the baby’s brilliant!”  For a little while as she talked about her son, soon to be seven, and the little one on the way, the familiar Bobbish joie de vivre returned. Listening to her speak in a roller coaster of a British accent that has the uncanny affect of  amplifying emotions, both chipper and morose, one might have been able to forget for a moment that she was in excruciating pain.

You see, Bob wears a high-back posture corset daily for chiropractic support. She said, “It’s like armor, it’s my exoskeleton. My bones and ligaments are not strong enough to hold me up. But my corset is.” But with her rapidly changing body shape, she could no longer wear her regular corset. With its flat front and curved in sides, it became increasingly uncomfortable and she had to cut her losses.

But Bob’s no fool. As soon as she knew she was pregnant, she went to Autumn Adamme, proprietress of Dark Garden, and asked her to make something she’s never made before. An expanding, adaptable, maternity corset. It had to be done, with the severity of a good client and friend’s wellbeing at stake, and it had to be done fast. Custom work is usually done in 3-5 months, but Autumn obviously didn’t have that kind of time. I remember seeing her after that initial meeting and thinking to myself: due process to the wind, this shit just got real.

Anything is possible in custom. That's why we call it custom.
Anything is possible in custom. That’s why we call it custom.

Their collaborative invention is unbelievably cool. It features a zip front to contour over the belly, separate busk closure for easy breast feeding, detachable underbelly support belt, and adjustable lacing at the center back and both sides — making the front belly panel completely replaceable by a rounder one further along, or a flatter one after birth. Oh, and Bob had it made in a shiny black leather, because she’s the best.

Once we put it on her, she changed completely. She was able to stand up straight, but more noticeably, she smiled. She could walk and stand and chat and shop and, whatever, live again and she seemed really freaking tickled. Anything we can do to make this clearly awesome death metal mama rock on a little harder? Yes. Who wouldn’t sign on to this uniquely fascinating challenge?