Tag Archives: leather corset

My First Custom Corset

Drunks make and break promises left and right, but a well-functioning sot is much more likely to follow through! In my tipsy vlog on leather corset care, I mentioned that I would soon be blogging about my first experience ordering a custom corset. Ta-da: as promised. It’s a very exciting and multi-step process, especially for those who aren’t used to having garments whipped up for them in collaboration with a design house, so I’m happy to share my experience.

The hardest part was deciding what I wanted (first in my long queue of dream corsets, anyway)! A common misstep that clients often want to take is to put too many design elements of every corset they might ever want into a single corset: teal butterfly brocade with silver piping and pockets and straps and and leather panel of contrasting color and D-rings and… too many “and’s” can lead to a costly corset and unfortunate aesthetic disaster. Having seen this unstoppable force of sheer giddiness in motion before, I pulled my excitable instincts back and decided to keep it simple. No fancy fabric choices: just plain, black, glove leather.

But I want SHINY!

Tell your inner fish:

It doesn’t speak.

I chose basic black because not only is it classic, but people looking at you will tend to see your silhouette and your personality, rather than the garment itself. I learned this lesson the hard way from a previous store manager, Holly Bobisuthi — who, for the record, one cannot keep away from electric teal tones or animal prints if one’s life depended on it — when everything inside me wanted a corset of multiple panels of insane Escher wool in black in white.

But why do people compliment my waist line more in my RTW plain black corset, when my wool one is a full inch smaller? My iliac crest is OBVIOUSLY more pronounced in it too!

Because young one. They only see the fabric, not the shape.

In my memory, she speaks to me like a sensei.

Basic black, lessoned learned.

The design I chose, granted, is a lot of corset. Highback, underbust, 18″ waist, accommodation for my ribs and hips, and longline Dollymop designer points framing the rear. I ordered something custom that is clearly custom. No one else has this corset — yet, anyway.

It’s no secret I get my corsets from Dark Garden. Excellent service, high quality materials, in house design and production, I work there… as well as the fact that I hate ordering things online, especially when fit is such a consideration (I won’t even order shoes online). Any corset maker that has a customer service team you can *speak to* regarding fit, style, and manufacture is a step above the rest.

THE PROCESS

Initial Measuring and Consult

All of the necessary measurements for the style of corset I was ordering were taken. I explained to the Master Designer what I was looking for (a specific shape of waist curve), that I was a tightlacer, and she inquired as to my desired waist measurement. She was open to modifying her standard design for the Highback Pointed Victorian to meet my aesthetic, and for her grace, ease, and flexibility to what I was looking for, I felt very taken care of as a custom client.

First Fitting

With the notes and measurements in mind, her senior pattern master came up with a mock up pattern just for me, and a mock up was created out of muslin for a first fitting, pictured below.

Image Image

 

Notice a couple things:

• a custom corset has a lot more panels than a ready to wear corset, allowing for more curvature with less stress on the matrix of threads essential the the makeup of the fabrics (benefit of which: custom corsets last longer).

• I’m totally stoned from satisfying compression made just for my body. Yummmm…..

During the fitting, the master fitter took notes on the mock up for the pattern to be adjusted accordingly. This was time to speak up if any changes were desired. Kalico Delafay happened to be walking by and I blurted, “Hey, can we put a Dollymop bottom on this thing?” After a look between the two designers and then finally a nod, the deal was sealed. Yes! I love the hybrid corsets.

The mockup fit so well, the master fitter was confident that a second fitting was not necessary. My order was moved into production.

Construction

As a front-of-house person, I’m not really supposed to disturb the stitchers at work, but I was too excited when I discovered it was MY custom frankenstein corset coming to life!

Image

AHHHHHHH SO EXCITING

Finished Corset

And then, after the deciding, the ordering, the measuring, the mockup fitting, the production, it was done! And it was beautiful.

Image
That’s a three quarter back view. Notice the rib definition! Photo by Edward Saenz
Image
Back view. I still have quite a bit of training to go, but the waist to booty ratio is not to bad! Photo by Edward Saenz
Image
A romantic side view. Photo by Edward Saenz

 

I also had fun wearing this corset at the 2014 Edwardian Ball!

Image
With friends!

 

Image
Eye candy for hungry crowds (in between Dark Garden salon performances)

 

Image
Sugar and spice from every angle!

 

Here’s to many more adventures in my wardrobe’s gem! I can’t wait for my next custom corset. I’m thinking about a sweetheart with a very reduced waist line, but my mind changes too often to tell with certainty. Perhaps something with the Swarovski crystal treatment… Indulge my inner fish!

Cheers,

Image
Photo by Edward Saenz

Euphrates X

Tightlacing Liaison | Expert Fitter

Dark Garden Unique Corsetry

 

 

Advertisements

10 Waist Training Tips

1. Don’t be competitive — with yourself or with others. Nobody likes a self righteous jerk, especially when it comes to body issues, and if you make yourself your worst enemy, then who will be left? Don’t focus too much on always besting previous measurements or you’ll drive yourself insane with angst. Remember that the body has natural cycles!

2. Take it easy — slow and steady integration of the corset into your lifestyle will make it more likely to be a long term fixture, as opposed to a temporary obsession. Easing into tight lacing slowly will be much better for the lifeline of the garment as well.

In the beginning of your training, wear the corset for a couple hours, not very tight, and increase gradually from there. Think to yourself: I have all the time in the world. The body accepts change much more gracefully when it’s relaxed, so stressing overlacing in the beginning will only do more harm than good — to both your body and the garment.

3. Take it off — I understand that there are people out there who love their corsets so much, they never want to part with them, even to sleep, but there are at least two daily occasions in which you absolutely must remove your corset: to shower, and to exercise. Yes, if one wears a corset everyday, think about it: it creates a midsection encased and supported in steel. Conditioning the core muscle group is necessary, lest it begin to atrophy over time. Though her extreme figure is lovely, I wouldn’t want to wind up as frail as this young lady, would you?

4. Be patient. Everybody’s different, and every body is different. Progress of reshaping the body with waist training is highly dependent on: core density of the individual, distance between the top of the pelvic bone and the rib cage, flexibility of the cartilage, quality and shape of the garments used, and consistency of wear. However, one might expect to train for six months before noticing any difference without a corset, in many cases more. Be patient with yourself and realize that non-surgical body modifications are a serious time commitment. Ask yourself: am I in it for the long-haul?

5. Prepare for attention. Whether you wear it loud and proud or layer it under clothes in a manner you think is stealth, it’s likely that at some point, you will be approached and point blank confronted about your corset. Sometimes friendly, sometimes sleazy, sometimes envious, and sometimes indignant — I’m sure I have not yet heard it all. My advice is to put your best foot forward and show ’em what a real lady is like. To me, that is curt, polite, and no nonsense.

A question to prepare for is: “Why do you wear a corset?” Whether you choose to answer the inquirer is your choice, but it’s an answer to a commonly asked question worth articulating in your mind, anyway.

6. Be discerning. The corset creates proportions and curves which awaken certain… instinctual desires in some. If you work in a professional environment, be careful to protect yourself against untoward advances, and be sure to make it clear when they are unwanted. Refresh yourself on harassment policies and collect evidence when you can. Harassment is terrible to bear, but difficult to prove.

7. Vodka water. A great way to freshen up your garments without investing the time and money in dry cleaning is to give them a quick mist with vodka-water (50/50) in a spray bottle! I wouldn’t recommend wetting silk, but cotton, or cotton-poly lining responds wonderfully to this treatment. Great for ridding of body odor, deodorant stains, or sweatiness. Make sure to let air dry completely (hang over a chair or a shower curtain rod, for example) before wearing or storing.

If your corset is leather, Lexol is a good brand of leather conditioner.

8. Invest in quality garments. As I mentioned earlier, one’s progress is in part determined by the quality, fit, and curvature of the corset applied. Corsets shaped like flared tubes:   ) (   will only make one look tubular and not closer to attaining the coveted hourglass figure. Search for a well constructed under bust garment that fits well –in that it applies pressure evenly over the entirety of the torso, as opposed to rubbing or flaring at the ribs or the hips — that nips in at the waist. The goal of waist training is waist reduction, after all.

Here is a great resource: What (you didn’t know) to look for in a corset, written by Marianne, my peer — who is often times more successful with words and things. Highly recommend!

9. Develop a corset wardrobe. As Sparklewren put it on an Etsy listing: all regular-wear items sustain wear-and-tear eventually. In the Victorian era, if a corset lasted a year this was considered a wonderful selling point. Treat your corset well, and understand that as an item of use it will not remain pristine forever. 

True fact. While we wish for our lovely investments to last forever, the simple fact is that a garment is simply a mere network of fibers, and under constant stress, can’t. However, we can extend the lifeline of our corsets by giving those networks of fibers and seams a break by alternating wear.

If you sleep in your corset, its a good practice to have a sleeper corset in a larger, broken in size (your first corset, perhaps). If you are primarily a day-wearer, having a variety of sizes, styles, and waist curves is a great way to extend the life of your garments and always have something you want to wear.

A corset wardrobe is something you can build over time. You don’t have to collect them all at once — though it’s difficult for some of us to restrain ourselves…

10. Enjoy the ride. Corset training truly is about the love of the journey. Remember above all else to listen to your body, have fun, and be good to yourself!

Photo by Edward Saenz, corset by Dark Garden, modeled by Euphrates X
Photo by Edward Saenz, corset by Dark Garden, modeled by Euphrates X

LOVE,

Euphrates X

Expert Fitter | Tightlacing Liaison

Dark Garden Unique Corsetry

The Most Interesting Corset Ever

The first that I saw of her yesterday was a tuft of green hair and a flash of metal from crowed rows of ear piercings. Her head was bent forward over her silver tipped canes in effort; it was hard for her to walk and she seemed to be in pain. “Hey, Bob!” I greeted her. “How are you doing today?” The face that normally held a beaming smile lifted towards me and my guts dropped a few inches at the grimace that had replaced it. Yes, Bob was in pain. She shared a sentiment similar to life being shit wall-to-wall and quickly found herself a seat. “And how is the baby?”

This inquiry made her light up like a Christmas tree in Germany. “I may be falling apart, no matter about that, the baby’s brilliant!”  For a little while as she talked about her son, soon to be seven, and the little one on the way, the familiar Bobbish joie de vivre returned. Listening to her speak in a roller coaster of a British accent that has the uncanny affect of  amplifying emotions, both chipper and morose, one might have been able to forget for a moment that she was in excruciating pain.

You see, Bob wears a high-back posture corset daily for chiropractic support. She said, “It’s like armor, it’s my exoskeleton. My bones and ligaments are not strong enough to hold me up. But my corset is.” But with her rapidly changing body shape, she could no longer wear her regular corset. With its flat front and curved in sides, it became increasingly uncomfortable and she had to cut her losses.

But Bob’s no fool. As soon as she knew she was pregnant, she went to Autumn Adamme, proprietress of Dark Garden, and asked her to make something she’s never made before. An expanding, adaptable, maternity corset. It had to be done, with the severity of a good client and friend’s wellbeing at stake, and it had to be done fast. Custom work is usually done in 3-5 months, but Autumn obviously didn’t have that kind of time. I remember seeing her after that initial meeting and thinking to myself: due process to the wind, this shit just got real.

Anything is possible in custom. That's why we call it custom.
Anything is possible in custom. That’s why we call it custom.

Their collaborative invention is unbelievably cool. It features a zip front to contour over the belly, separate busk closure for easy breast feeding, detachable underbelly support belt, and adjustable lacing at the center back and both sides — making the front belly panel completely replaceable by a rounder one further along, or a flatter one after birth. Oh, and Bob had it made in a shiny black leather, because she’s the best.

Once we put it on her, she changed completely. She was able to stand up straight, but more noticeably, she smiled. She could walk and stand and chat and shop and, whatever, live again and she seemed really freaking tickled. Anything we can do to make this clearly awesome death metal mama rock on a little harder? Yes. Who wouldn’t sign on to this uniquely fascinating challenge?